Eating Smart: Sustainable Seafood

Can you really have your fish and eat it too? If all American adults consumed eight ounces of a low-mercury fish each week, the annual number of coronary deaths in the US would drop by 20,000 concluded a recent study published in the American Journal of Preventative Medicine. It is believed that heart-healthy omega-3 fatty acids found in fish help make “bad” LDL cholesterol less likely to stick to artery walls and may relieve arterial inflammation. Seafood is also an excellent source of low fat protein that can be prepared in zillions of different delicious ways. The “catch” is that there is a delicate balance between seafood consumption, human health, and the health of the environment. Can the principles of “ecogastronomy” tackle this conundrum?

Dangerous levels of environmental contaminants can accumulate in certain types of fish and shellfish, and can be especially concentrated in top predators “high on the food chain.” In addition, many modern fishing practices are polluting and depleting our natural resources. Here in the Tetons we must also grapple with the additional environmental cost of transportation. There is no clear-cut solution to these problems, but an educated consumer can make informed choices by weighing the human health benefits and risks and considering what is best for our oceans.

In 2004 the FDA and EPA issued an advisory recommending pregnant and nursing women and young children avoid high-mercury fish species such as swordfish, king mackerel and shark because mercury can cause developmental defects in children. But many people extrapolated that this risk applies to everyone (and includes all seafood). If you are not a young child or woman of childbearing age, the benefits- reducing your risk of heart attack and stroke by eating seafood far outweigh the risks. As a general rule, the smaller the fish, the less toxic. So save the “big fish” for special occasions like sushi night out, and buy the highest quality available.

To help you choose healthy seafood that is caught or farmed sustainably the Monterey Bay Aquarium publishes and updates a seafood watch in the form of a downloadable, wallet size card. Their “green light’ list includes Pacific halibut, rainbow trout, snow crab, farmed mussels, US farmed Tilapia, and wild-caught Alaskan salmon. Preference here in the USA should always be given to North American seafood- not only does it travel less distance but many international fishing and farming operations are not well regulated resulting in widespread species and environmental damage. Don’t be afraid to ask your butcher or waitperson where the seafood comes from, and reward fisheries with good practices.

Finally, don’t forget about taste. For my family, in the middle of the Rocky Mountains, in the middle of winter, buying seafood is not them most sensible, but we love it for a special treat. For my husband’s “good luck going away for his AMGA Ski Guide Exam” dinner we had a gorgeous purple slice of sushi grade Ahi Tuna, seared and served with soy butter, steamed asparagus, and rice pilaf. Where do we find fresh sushi grade Ahi in the Tetons, you ask? The plethora of billionaires who visit Jackson Hole guarantee daily air delivery of seafood that can be found at most restaurants, the Victor Valley Market, Chef’s Table, and Jackson Whole Grocer. Don’t forget, sometimes the most important thing about “ecogastronomy” is the gastronomy part!